FASHIONSTUDENT

 

FABRIC WEIGHTS

 

If you are designing a garment to produce and you are unsure which material would be best to give the desired flare and structure,

here is a list to help you out:

LIGHT-MED          

Afgalaine, Angora, Bengaline, Cashmere, Chino, Chintz, Cire, Crepon, Dupion, Faille, Foulard, Gingham, Homespun, Honan, Knitted Fabric, Lame, Matelasse, Mohair, Moire, Ottoman, Panama, Percale, Pique, Sateen, Satin, Shantung, Sharkskin, Slipper Satin, Surah, Taffeta, Tricot, Tussore

MEDIUM              

Alpaca, Bagheera, Barathea, Bark crepe, Brocade, Butcher, Calico, Cavalry twill, Cloque, Coutil, Covert, Crepe, Damask, Denim, Doeskin, Faconne Velvet, Hopsack, Jean, Knitted Fabric, Panne Velvet, Sailcloth, Serge, Tartan, Velveteen

MED-HEAVY          

Bedford Cord, Boucle, Broadcloth, Camel Hair, Canvas, Chenille, Cheviot, Corduroy, Donegal Tweed, Drill, Dungaree, Flannel, Fleece, Flock, Harris Tweed, Honeycomb, Knitted Fabric, Llama Fabric, Moleskin, Tapestry, Ticking, Tweed, Velour, Venetian, Worsted

HEAVY                 

Astrakhan, Beaver, Double, Duffle, Felt, Fur Fabric, Knitted, Fabric, Loden Cloth, Melton, Plush, Quilted

 

                                     USEFUL MAGAZINES

Another Magazine                                  

Bloom

Drapers

Elle

In Style

Look

Marie Claire

Selvedge

Textile View

Vogue

 

 

 

 

SHOPS AND SUPPLIERS

Barnet & Lawson London

Bead Crazy Aberdeen

Doll Faced Molly Online (online shop)

John Lewis Nationwide

Liberty London

Material World London

Soho Silks London

Renmant Kings Nationwide

2000 Tailoring London

The Cloth House London


 

TOP 20 FASHION UNIVERSITIES IN THE UK

 1.  Central Saint Martins - London


2.  Brunel


3.  Newcastle university


4.  Edinburgh College of Art


5.  University of Dundee


6.  Reading University


7.  Goldsmiths College


8.  Oxford University


9.  Loughborough University


10.  University Of The Arts - London


11.  Brighton University


12.  Leeds University


13.  Heriot-Watt University


14.  Salford University


15.  Nottingham Trent University


16.  Kingston


17.  Lancaster University


18.  Bournemouth University


19.  Southampton University


20.  Robert Gordon - Grays School Of Art 

 

GLOSSARY FOR FABRIC CONSTRUCTION AND PATTERN CUTTING

 


BATTING

Tangled fibre sheets in quilting and stuffing


BESPOKE

Custom-made, one-off tailored garments


BLOCK

A 2D template, using measurements taking from your model size.  There are no style lines or seam allowance this is a basic block


BONING

Method for stiffening fabric on garments, such as corsetry.


BREAKLINE

The folding in a collar


BREECHES

Trousers worn by men until the late nineteenth century


CALICO

A cheap cotton fabric, made in different weights most commonly used for toiles


COURSE

The horizontal (crosswise) ridge of a knitted fabric


CRINOLINE

Stiff underskirt used by crinoline fabric and horsehair.  Vivienne Westwood 1985 collection Mini Crini is a great collection to look into for this


DARTS

Darts control the excess fabric to create shape at various different points


EASE

An allowance added to a pattern in order to allow for extra comfort or movement


FACING

Used to finish a raw edge of a garment


FELTING

The knotting together of fibres to produce a matted material


GATHERING

Two parallel loosely stitched rows that are pulled up to create fulness and a decorative, ruffled effect


GRAIN LINE

A grain line indicates the direction in which the pattern piece is laid onto fabric before being cut out


GRADING

The increase and decrease of a pattern


GODET

Panel of fabric inserted into a garment, such as a skirt or dress, to create flare


HAUTE COUTURE

Garments made to measure for a specific customer


KNIFE PLEATS

Pressed pleats that go in one direction


LINING

Fabric used on the inside of a garment to hide the construction


NETTING

Net is an open-mesh, transparent fabric


OVERLOCKING

Quick and efficent way of stitching, trimming and edging fabrics in a single action to neaten seams 


PRET-A-PORTER

French term used in Fashion Design to describe ready-to-wear


SAMPLE

The first version of a garment made in the main fabric


SCYE

Technical name for the sleeve head


SLASH AND SPREAD

A method to add extra volume and flare


TOP-STITCH

To stitch on the right side of the garment


WALES

The vertical ridges in a knitted fabric


WELT

The reinforced or decorative border of a garment or pocket

 

TOOLS FOR CONSTRUCTION 

There are certain tools needed to construct garments.  You can find most of them at haberdashery shops, however to purchase industrial machinery you will have to talk to a tradesman.  Here is a list of basic equipment needed.

FABRIC SCISSORS

Medium size for normal use, larger size for heavier fabric.  To achieve the most from your scissors use only on fabric.

HAND-SEWING NEEDLES

There are a variety of shapes, sizes and points to choose from.  Standard needle is medium length (37mm), thin sewing needle with a round eye.

TAPE MEASURE

Have your tape measure hanging round your neck while constructing garments for full control of measurements.

EMBRIODERY SCISSORS

The scissors are small and sharp.  Good for snipping threads and delicate details.

TAILOR'S CHALK

You can purchase these in many colours depending on the colour of your fabric and can be brushed away after use.

PINS

Pins also come in different sizes, shapes and materials.  Stainless steel dressmaking pins are the standard and best to handle.  When working with knits, use safety pins as normal pins will disapear in the fabric.

MACHINE SEWING NEEDLES

You can purchase universal needles to suit all machines, however you can also get specified needles to match the make of your machine.

THIMBLE

This will protect you from nips by your needle.  Usually metal made.

 

     PATTERN CUTTING TOOLS AND  EQUIPMENT

Tailor's Chalk 

                               

Using tailors chalk is a way of marking lines or transferring a pattern on to cloth

Set of French Curves  

                           

These are used for drawing narrower curves, such as those found on collars and pockets

Wooden Awl 

                                         

This is used for marking points within the pattern piece by punching through the pattern to leave a small mark on the fabric

Pins    

                                                 

These are used as a temporarily fix for pieces of paper or fabric

Tape Measure 

                                      

This is used to measure body measurements, it is flexible so allows curved lines to be measured also

Pattern Notcher  

                                  

This is used for marking the edge of the pattern pieces by taking out a small square for each balance point

Paper Scissors   

                                   

These are only used for paper, in order to keep the blades sharp

Tracing Wheel 

                                    

This is used to trace a line from one piece of paper or pattern on to another directly underneath it

43cm Set Square

                                  

This is a right angled triangular plate used for drawing lines, particularly at 90 degrees and 45 degrees

Aluminium Meter Ruler  

                       

This is essential for drawing and connecting longer, straight lines 

 

 

 

 

BODY MEASUREMENTS FOR WOMEN 

SIZE CODE

BUST

WAIST 

HIPS

BACK WIDTH

CHEST

SHOULDER

NECK SIZE

DART

NAPE TO WAIST

ARMSCYE DEPTH

WAIST TO KNEE

WAIST TO HIP

BODY RISE

SLEEVE LENGTH

6        8        10      12    

76    80     84      88

56    60     64      68

82    86     90      94

31    32     33      34

29    30     31      32

11    11.7   12     12.25

34     35     36     37

5.2    5.8    6.4    7

40    40.2   40.6   41

19.8  20.2   20.6   21

57     57.5   58    58.5

20     20.1   20.3  20.6

26     27      27.5  28

57     57.5    58    58.5

 

 

TAKING MEASUREMENTS 

 

Neck

Measure around the base of the neckline

Top Bust

Measure under the arm around the body above the bust

Bust

Measure around the fullest part of the bust

Shoulder Length

Measure from neckline to end of shoulder

Under Bust

Measure around rib cage under bust around the body

Waist

Measure around waist

High Hip

Measure around the abdomen about 8-10cm below the waistline

Hip

Measure around the fullest part of the hips

Arm Length

Measure from shoulder point to wrist with arm slightly bent

Front Length

Measure from the neckline cross point, past the bust down to waistline

Back Length

Measure from the nape of neck to waist

Waist to hip

Distance between waist and hip

Waist to Knee

Distance between Waist to Knee

Outside leg

Distance from the waistline to floor or outside ankle

Inside leg

Distance from waistline to floor or inside leg

Wrist

Measure around the width of wrist

Bicep

Measure around top of the arm

Elbow

Measure around the width of the elbow

 When taking these measurements make sure the tape isn't too loose or too tight around the body so there will be no restriction with garments and they won't be to big.

 
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